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Eat mezze at Mezze

It's a terrine that looks like just about any other in town, the nitrite-pink slab marbled and fat-wrapped, a cascade of gem-like pickled vegetables pouring over one meaty edge.

But flavor and appearance hardly match: The pungent smack of fenugreek places this lamb-and-pork construction ($13) closer to Little Armenia than the well-appointed La Cienega dining room in which it's served.

Mezze, chef Micah Wexler's three-month-old restaurant in the old Sona space, is full of such turns of taste. And thanks to the new late-night menu–with its half-price glasses of wine and cocktails–and a just-launched lunch service, there are plenty of ways to enjoy Wexler's pan-Middle Eastern cooking.

The wine list features predominately California bottles peppered with offerings from Israel, Lebanon and Morocco, and embodies Wexler's approach, in which local-ingredient-heavy cooking is graced by the occasional touch from a high-quality import.

The spice arsenal isn't the only regional element at Mezze. Wexler is also taking on classic dishes such as tabbouleh ($11), shawarma ($10) and fattoush ($12). One such plate, the Israeli breakfast favorite shakshouka (pictured; $13) is a standout. Silky stewed peppers and tomatoes don a 63-degree poached egg and a crow of yogurt foam, with browned, liver-like lamb sweetbreads studding the edge of the dish.

Mezze, 401 N. La Cienega Blvd., Mid-City; 310-657-4103 or mezzela.com