Devil's Teeth Baking Co. By Chef Hilary Cherniss

A new Outer Sunset bakery locals can't help but love

Crumbly raspberry bars, sticky, oversize cinnamon rolls and sugar-dusted doughnut muffins: At the month-old Devil's Teeth Baking Co., patrons flock for a taste of Hilary Cherniss' treats.

It helps that the bakery opened on a quiet stretch of Noriega Street, so close to the beach that on a clear day you can glimpse the bakery's namesake, the jagged Farallon Islands. Still, the bakery is also far from anywhere else selling pour-over cups of Blue Bottle coffee.

On Sundays, beignets are fried to order, and every day at lunch, the breakfast treats are joined by slices of quiche, lasagna and a couple of hearty soups.

But those coming in after a morning spent surfing (or a night spent drinking) opt for the big gun, the breakfast sandwich ($5). This is no warmed-over, premade affair. Once you order, a buttery biscuit is split, eggs are cracked and scrambled, bacon is recrisped, and the whole is assembled with a slice of cheddar as glue.

The foil-wrapped parcels can be taken to go, or you can grab one of a few chairs and watch the morning queue, comprising off-duty cops, fathers with children hanging from their limbs, and bleary-eyed couples, all so grateful for Noriega's newest addition.

Devil's Teeth Baking Co., 3876 Noriega St. (at 46th St.); 415-683-5533 or