Top-Heavy

Pile on creative condiments at Etno Village Grill

Condiment lovers, take heed: Etno Village Grill, at the corner of Lincoln and Wrightwood, is your new playground.

There, inside the wood-lined corner building with the cow statue on top, is the city's best new assortment of toppings–over 20 in all.

Citrusy carrot salad, marinated radishes, house-made dill pickles, creamy spinach-feta spread and more are designed to garnish cevap (pronounced "che-vap") sandwiches ($7), Balkan-style sausage patties tucked into airy rolls from Irving Park's Serbian bakery Beograd.

Chef Chris Carson, formerly of 404 Wine Bar and Takashi, makes everything in-house but the ajvar, a red-pepper-eggplant sauce imported from Serbia. We consider his red onion marmalade, simmered with balsamic vinegar, red wine, cinnamon and star anise, a requisite garnish for garlicky beef-pork or chicken-spinach-feta cevaps. Both tzatziki and the Etno spread, a paprika-tinged sour-cream-feta blend, are excellent, creamy counterpoints to the sausages and fresh vegetables.

The condiment bar will evolve through the summer. For example, once baby beets come into season, Carson plans to dress them with onions, olive oil, orange juice and herbs.

For those who crave predetermined toppings, look to the burger section of the menu, specifically Carson's eponymous sandwich, loaded with Camembert, ginger-poached pears, bacon and Dijon mustard.

And for those who eat late, Etno's grill blazes until 4 a.m. on Saturday nights.

Etno Village Grill, 2580 N. Lincoln Ave. (at Wrightwood Ave.); 773-698-8069 or etnogrill.com