Claw-to-Tail Eating

Finding New England in L.A.

For a city that birthed smoked-salmon pizza and kalbi tacos, Los Angeles has left the lobster roll astonishingly uncorrupted.

Revisiting our local favorites in preparation for Tasting Table's Lobster Roll Rumble in New York City, we've found little that's strayed from the New England prototype.

This is not to say that L.A. rolls have no individuality. At The Hungry Cat, the inclusion of tarragon in an herb garnish lends an anise-like touch that complements the rich lobster wonderfully ($25).

Son of a Gun's two-bite roll ($7) may have shrunken proportions, but it carries Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo's signature brazen flavors. The crunchy combination of the potato-chip topping and the toasted Breadbar brioche bun create a roll that's a uniquely textural experience.

For the anti-mayo crowd, The Water Grill's Connecticut-style roll features chunks of claw and tail sluiced with warm drawn butter ($29).

The LobstaTruck, our city's representative at the Rumble, leaves the choice of dressing up to the customer, offering both mayonnaise and butter versions. On Monday, May 16, and Monday, May 23, Tasting Table readers can score a lobster roll, cup of chowder, glass of lemonade, a whoopie pie and chips all for $20, tip and tax exclusive. Just mention the Tasting Table deal while ordering. Limit one per person.

LobstaTruck; twitter.com/lobstatruck