Doggone Delectable

Xolo's Danger Dog is no average hot dog

We can hear the grousing from across the Bay: The chips aren't free, and the burritos are too small.

To the owners of Xolo, a new taqueria in downtown Oakland, opened by the owners of Tacubaya and Doña Tomás, we have only this to say: "Haters gonna hate."

Too bad for said haters because they're going to miss the Danger Dog. This isn't your average street-style bacon-wrapped hot dog. Surely, some will challenge its authenticity and claim it is a bourgeois extrapolation of the "real" version. Be that as it may, we have nothing but high praise for the creation.

The bacon-wrapped dog ($6.50) is merely a starting point. The squidgy bolillo that cradles it is fully loaded with refried pinto beans, sour cream and yellow mustard, then the lot is topped with pico de gallo, cubes of avocado and pickled carrot and jalapeño.

Too much? Maybe. Without some squishing and giant bites, it's almost impossible to eat without a fork and knife, further distancing Xolo's dog from a version you'd find griddled on a Mission corner.

Say what you will, haters. Our mouths will be too full to talk back.

Xolo, 1916 Telegraph Ave., Oakland; 510-986-0151 or xolotaqueria.com