Gravy Train

The Passenger's daytime menu fights hangovers

The local brunch scene can be brutal for anyone who doesn't reserve ahead or arrive bright and early.

But the sleepy midafternoon Sunday brunch at The Passenger rewards people who sleep in.

The mellow affair, which runs from 2 until 11 p.m., showcases chef Javier Duran's favorite hangover foods.

His waffle sandwich ($9) layers chive-laced scrambled eggs and thin slices of applewood-smoked bacon between two just-crisp-enough waffle wedges. The dish comes with a bowl of maple syrup to create that ideal intersection of sweet and salty.

Crumbly Southern biscuits ($8) are made with extra butter, like scones, and arrive bathed in peppery gravy thick with Red Apron's breakfast sausage.

Duran's chilaquiles ($9) are a spicy wonder. He uses both New Mexican chilies and chiles de árbol to stoke the fire of his smoky house salsa, which then coats thin tortilla strips. He pan-fries each batch so the chips crackle, then serves the dish with avocado and a runny fried egg. The dish is part finger food and part fortification for Champagne cocktails or a pint of Port City's Optimal Wit ($7).

Kimchi hot dogs and panini are also available off the bar's regular menu. So if you're moving extra-slowly, you can fit two full meals into one Sunday stop.

The Passenger, 1021 7th St. NW (between New York Ave. & L St.); 202-393-0220 or passengerdc.com