Thai Nights

Chef Kris Yenbanroong's street-style Thai eats

There are many places in L.A. to go for authentic Thai food: to Norwalk for northern cooking at Renu Narkorn, to Thai Town for southern specialties at Jitlada.

Add the newly opened extension of Talésai, Night+Market, to that list.

Night+Market pairs craft beer and wine with street-food-inspired small plates, all served at communal tables under the flickering light cast by Thai films projected onto the wall. With dishes like lemongrass-spiked sai uah sausage ($6) and wok-fried strips of rib eye coated in chile paste ($9), Night+Market's traditional Thai cooking is uncompromising in its flavor.

When you read that Night+Market's skirt steak salad ($10; pictured) is "devastatingly hot," you should respond accordingly: Order it–along with another Allagash white ale and a basket of sticky rice–and embrace the heat. Because along with the burn comes the wonderful fruity flavor of chilies that marries so well with charred steak, cilantro and lime.

And for pork fans, chef Kris Yenbamroong has a cut that is destined for cult status: collar. The strips of fatty meat, taken from behind the neck, are served simply grilled; jaew chile dip provides just a kick of heat and acidity to cut through the richness of the meat.

With service eventually extending to 2 a.m., Night+Market is also your new spot for late-night snacks on the strip.

Night+Market, 9041 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; 310-275-9724 or thenightmarket.blogspot.com