From the Windows

Tacos Impala put the wrap on H Street's freeze

For every thing, there is a season.

When winter weather shuttered H Street's Philadelphia Water Ice for the season, the entrepreneurial owners of Impala Tacos capitalized on the vacancy and sublet the space until spring.

Though you won't find shaved ice, Impala's simple Mexican menu satisfies: Choose between three taco options dressed with lime, cilantro, radishes and onion, along with your choice of red or green salsa.

The kitchen braises pork until it shreds, then pan-fries the tender meat for slightly crispy carnitas (pictured; $3), piled onto two layers of corn tortillas.

The take-out window has no seats, so you can eat at the tiny front counter or have your food bagged to go. The carne asada tacos ($3) are best eaten right away. Order them topped with the spicy, cilantro-laced salsa verde (the salsa's tart tomatillos and jalapeƱos amplify the steak's subtle char).

Vegetarian tacos ($3) pack refried beans and chunks of cotija cheese with onion, radishes and cilantro. Salsa Impala, a mild tomato salsa, has smoky guajillo chiles, which punch up the earthy beans.

Like the food menu, drink choices are simple. Mexican Coca-Cola ($1.50) is the best bet, but you'll find orange and lemon-lime Jarritos ($1.50) as well.

As the venture takes off, the owners are keeping the menu small. But in the coming weeks, they plan to expand the menu to include quesadillas and Sunday soups.

Tacos Imapala, 1204 H St. NE