Baked Alaska, Souffles And Choucroute At Jacques' Brasserie At L'Auberge Chez Francois In Great Falls

Deep in the woods of Great Falls, Jacques Haeringer converted part of his secluded L'Auberge Chez François into a lively Alsatian bistro.

The chef has transformed a room of the restaurant–which was started by and named for his late father–into Jacques' Brasserie, a place for him to serve more casual dishes.

The menu tackles French classics–some made using François' handwritten recipes–including hanger steak ($26) and onion soup ($9), but the true standouts are the regional Alsatian dishes.

Haeringer, who jokes that he always wanted to open a pizzeria, plays with three tartes on his new menu. The chef crisps the crusts to a cracker-like consistency, topping each tarte with crème fraîche and combinations like sautéed onions and bacon ($15), buttery wild mushrooms ($17) or smoked salmon ($15).

Save room for the large choucroute platter ($24), the ultimate winter dish, piled high with smoky bacon, sausages, and salt pork over tangy sauerkraut and soft potatoes.

End the meal with a baked Alaska ($12) or a soufflé ($12) of Grand Marnier, chocolate, raspberry or hazelnut. With French music wafting through the inn, it feels like a portal to France.

Jacques' Brasserie at L'Auberge Chez François, 332 Springvale Rd., Great Falls; 703-759-3800 or laubergechezfrancois.com