Smooth Operator

Discovering an ancient dessert at the brand-new 25 Lusk

In among the smashing contemporary design of the brand-new Twenty Five Lusk is a delicious nod to centuries past.

The dish: lime posset, a silky, eggless custard whose origins can be traced to England in the 1400s.

Previously, we had only read about posset in dessert compendiums and historical tracts.

So we were elated to see it on the menu at Twenty Five Lusk; we were even more thrilled after we tasted the dish from chef Matthew Dolan, who doubles as Twenty Five Lusk's pastry chef.

For his posset, he brings cream to a boil, then adds real vanilla bean and a wallop of fresh lime juice. Dolan then carefully pipes a thin layer onto flat rectangular plates using a fondant gun. The shimmering result is akin to the sheen of ice on a lake after the first frost. Finally, to order, the posset is finished with knolls of Champagne granité, mint and kiwi.

We were so taken with Dolan's posset, we asked for the recipe (click here to download the recipe). Score: It turns out the dish is ridiculously simple to make.

This fall in our home kitchen, the very old is going to be a new favorite.

Twenty Five Lusk, 25 Lusk St.; 415-495-5875 or twentyfivelusk.com