Twist Thai

Thai street food steams up Arlington

Thai Curry, an unassuming new spot wedged into a busy North Arlington strip mall, may still bear the name of the old tenant–Bangkok Siam–on its awning, but the new kitchen is strictly Thai, with a street food menu starring seven soups.

Seafood noodle soup ($10) is packed with squid, whole shrimp, and fried wontons filled with pork paste, all ladled over watercress in a vinegar- and chile-fortified broth that intensifies with each sip.

Pork, cilantro, fried garlic and fish balls flavor a broth of lemongrass, nam pla and lime for a twist on tom yum pork (pictured; $10).

Five-spice adds heat to honey-roasted duck soup ($12) with fresh wonton noodles.

Each soup comes with bowls of sugar and chili powder, as well as red and green chiles in vinegar to up the spice factor. Diners can also choose from thin or broad rice noodles, or egg or clear glass noodles. Additional meat, fish or shrimp balls ($3) are available, but you may not need them: Thai Curry ladles monster portions.

Familiar Thai snacks are also fresh takes on the norm. The ubiquitous papaya salad ($9) features grilled shrimp speared into a fried canopy of crispy, julienned green papaya.

Thai Curry, 307 N. Glebe Rd., Arlington; 703-524-0711