Small Plates And Craft Cocktails At Patowmack Farm In Lovettsville

A farm-to-table pioneer embraces small bites

Long before the term locavore became common parlance, Patowmack Farm's Beverly Morton Billand was living off the land.

She founded her quaint Lovettsville farm in 1986, and opened The Restaurant at Patowmack Farm in 1998. Today, the glassed-in dining room is a testament to Billand's vision, offering postcard-perfect Potomac views and food sourced almost exclusively from the land.

Chef Christopher Edwards–who trained at El Bulli–has recently modernized the formal five-course tasting menu ($85), adding a la carte menu items–including seared skate with lemon-caper froth ($26)–and launching a special Thursday menu of casual small plates to help diners taste as many farm ingredients as possible.

Soft-cooked farm eggs ($12) become almost custardlike when mixed with earthy truffles and shavings of nutty Raclette cheese. Pork terrine ($8) is grilled just enough to acquire some crispness and a hint of smoke that works well with the accompanying spicy mustard.

With berries, melons and stone fruits in season, desserts like homemade sopapillas embellished with rhubarb confit ($8), or a blueberry galette ($10), are impeccable closers.

Volt alumnus and cocktail wiz Patrick Forest is new to the team, translating harvest spoils into infusions like pepper vodka, garnishes like apple chips, and soft drinks like berry sodas. It's no surprise that they're often mixed with local spirits.

The Restaurant at Patowmack Farm, 42461 Lovettsville Rd., Lovettsville, VA; 540-822-9017 or