The Transporting Way Of La Folie's Fine Dining Thanks To Chef Roland Passot

The transporting way of La Folie's fine dining

It's been four years since we last dined at La Folie, and we still remember the bone-marrow-crusted filet. In fact, it's still the greatest fine-dining beef dish we've ever had.

So on a recent visit to Roland Passot's 22-year-old Russian Hill restaurant, we had our expectations hovering near the carnivorous stratosphere.

Meat mission accomplished.

To our minds, the ideal setting for a meal at La Folie is the restaurant's new lounge. The couches are low, the ambience relaxed and the menu options varied.

So we began with impeccable cocktails like the rum-based Old Cuban, and a stunning platter of house-made charcuterie ($18) that included pâté de campagne embedded with a round of foie gras. Then we created a superb meal ($75 for 3 courses; $85 for 4; $95 for 5) from the dining room's tasting menu.

Course One: cauliflower panna cotta with curried Dungeness crab. Course Two: silky walu, cooked en sous vide, with artichokes barigoule and fennel purée. Course Three: Passot's famous squab-stuffed quail, wrapped in crisp potato shreds and served with a jumble of spring vegetables. Course Four: baked Alaska with basil-spiked peaches.

And the steak? Every dish was so outstanding, we had absolutely no beef with not having any.

La Folie, 2316 Polk St. (at Green St.); 415-776-5577 or