Gilt Bar, A New Comfort Food Restuarant In River North

Ask chefs what they want to eat on their days off, and they almost always say "comfort food."

Case in point: Gilt Bar chef Brendan Sodikoff, who built his new River North restaurant around those very cravings for simple dishes and big flavors.

Start with a dose of freshness–shaved raw root vegetables with Champagne vinegar ($8)–while perusing the menu. Carnivores should not miss the toast with tangy onion jam and roasted marrow bones, split lengthwise for easy access ($13).

Pappardelle pasta–served with inspired accompaniments, like diver scallops, chili and celery ($16), or small chunks of rabbit confit and salt pork ($15)–is wildly buttery but delicious. By-the-book pot roast in a deeply flavored wine glaze ($19) would earn Grandma's approval. Pair it with the city's best smashed potatoes, made memorable by the addition of dark, savory, roasted garlic-chicken jus ($5).

Dessert is old-school indulgence: house-made ice cream, thick hot fudge sauce, chewy bourbon-pecan bars and caramel corn.

The chic salvaged and industrial interior is matched by a stylish cocktail list, courtesy of The Whistler's Paul McGee–who's currently helping turn a downstairs room into an underground cocktail-only lounge, set to open in a month.

Comfort food and underground cocktails: Yes, we'd say they're golden.

Gilt Bar, 230 W. Kinzie St.; 312-464-9544 or giltbarchicago.com