Second Coming

Panya's revamped treats will get you through winter

The sudden closure of the Japanese bakery Panya last winter made the season particularly bleak. And just as we were gearing up for another stint of cold weather without the warmth of its crumbly charms, the East Village favorite has reopened its doors.

At Panya's new digs, you'll find the same delicious classics, such as the rich deep-fried curry pan ($3.25), alongside new improvements like an open kitchen that turns out custom Japanese-inspired sandwiches.

Use your hands as a litmus test for the rotating list of baked goods–by ordering whatever gets them stickiest. The sugar toast ($2.25), a massive slice of bread coated in sugar, then baked until a caramelized lacquer covers the surface, is a good starting point.

Other unusual items include the cookie custard ($2.75), a circle of pastry dough filled with a cookie "cream" that tastes strikingly similar to cookie dough.

And in the coming weeks, Panya will add a morning menu that offers a proper Japanese breakfast.

Bring it on, winter.

Panya Bakery, 8 Stuyvesant St. (between 11th and 12th sts.); 212-777-1930