Gimme Ssam

Discover the thrills of this classic Korean wrap

Pork belly's day in the spotlight has turned into weeks and, thanks to David Chang and Kogi, modern Korean food seems to be on everyone's lips.

Let's take a moment, then, to praise one of Korea's finest dishes, bo ssam, and its best local incarnation, at Santa Clara's pristine, modern restaurant Jang Su Jang.

One of a variety of traditional Korean wraps, bo ssam ($23.99) comprises two plates at Jang Su Jang and is ideal for sharing.

The first is tiled with melting slices of traditional pork belly that's been braised with garlic, onion, doenjang (soybean paste) and ginger.

The other is strewn with salted Napa cabbage leaves, pickled jalapeños, pink and white wafers of pickled Korean radish, and a tangle of salted radish saturated with the fiery thrum of red-pepper powder.

Diners lay a cabbage leaf across their palms, then stock it with pork and their chosen condiments. The brave–and wise–gild the package with a few teeny brined shrimp, their saline punch tempered by fresh chiles and sesame seeds, then wait for sensory overload.

Jang Su Jang's bo ssam is proof that tradition can indeed trump invention.

Jang Su Jang, 3561 El Camino Real #10, Santa Clara; 408-246-1212