Confections on Ice

Compartes' gelato and sorbets are as unique as its truffles

Compartes has come a long way since Frank Sinatra would dip in for chocolate-covered fruit. When Jonathan Grahm took over the longstanding mom-and-pop shop in 2003, he transformed it into a chic spot for uniquely flavored, decorative candies. Now his confections have inspired a new line of ice cream, gelato and sorbet, just in time for summer.

Compartes frozen treats come in about six flavors at any given time, perfect for mixing and matching. There's an espresso gelato with the same rich, earthy coffee flavor as his intense Kona truffle. Vanilla ice cream flecked with cracked black peppercorns (pictured) is a spicy-sweet combo you won't find at Baskin-Robbins. On the lighter side, there's a refreshingly tangy lemongrass or juicy Cabernet-blackberry sorbet. The best part: Grahm comes up with new truffle flavors frequently (candied fennel, cardamom and guava are some recent finds) so the ice creams ($3 a cup) will change just as often. We're hoping the spicy Mexican hot-chocolate truffle will make its way to the freezer soon.

There's also a new patio with tables and comfy banquettes, so you can sit back and enjoy a scoop any time of day. The Brentwood housewives never had it so good.

Compartes Chocolatier, 912 S. Barrington Ave., Brentwood; 310-826-3380‎ or compartes.com