More Than Meats the Eye

Before loading up on charcuterie at Salumeria Rosi, sit down for a meal

On the bargain-starved Upper West Side, the recently opened gourmet shop Salumeria Rosi is a welcome find, especially for its selection of cured meats. But hidden inside the store—a collaboration between a legendary salumi-making family and chef Cesare Casella—is an excellent (though tiny) restaurant serving lusty, unexpectedly refined Italian dishes, where nothing on the menu is more than $10, including ample portions of the sliced-to-order charcuterie.

For the best dining experience, grab one of the coveted bar stools and start with some silken proscuitto di Parma (pictured) and a few small plates, like the torta di porri—mini buttery tarts filled with a creamy mixture of leeks, pancetta and Parmigiano-Reggiano—or the sweet butternut-squash risotto topped with crumbled amaretti cookies. The porchetta Toscana, sliced from a juicy pork loin that's been wrapped in pork belly and roasted, is a contender (with this spot) for best in town. For something lighter, try the sides of slow-roasted beets with a shallot-Chardonnay vinaigrette and the nutty insalata sette fagioli, made with seven types of heirloom beans.

Desserts are petite but big on flavor, especially the tender spiced-apple cake. On your way out, buy your favorite salumi to go and grab a cup of the excellent coffee for the road.

Salumeria Rosi, 283 Amsterdam Ave. (between 73rd and 74th sts.); 212-877-4800 or salumeriarosi.com