All that Glitters

Overdose on Christmas kitsch (and German sausages) at Rolf’s

In its 50-plus years, the landmark Gramercy restaurant Rolf's has consistently put on one of the city's most exuberant holiday displays: shiny stalactites of ornamental balls hang from the ceiling, accented by gnarly tree branches, evergreens and faux icicles. Stop in to admire the elaborate fantasia and you'll find a warm winter refuge, complete with snug, pewlike booths and a continuous loop of Christmas anthems.

One thing that has changed this year is the description of Rolf's food, from German to French Bavarian, a slight alteration owed to its new chef, Adalbert Rasemborg. He's added dishes like French onion soup and Basque chicken sauté, but what Rolf's continues to do über alles is traditional German food.

Dinner reservations are scarce until the New Year, so visit at lunchtime for the sausage sampler ($22), an embankment of wursts surrounding mounds of sauerkraut and mashed potatoes. Round out your meal with sides of chewy spaetzle ($4), crisp potato pancakes ($8) and a stein of malty Hofbrau Dunkel, then let the holiday spirit take over.

Rolf's French Bavarian Restaurant, 281 Third Ave. (at 22nd St.); 212-477-4750