10 Ways Climate Change Is Threatening The World's Wine Industry

2011 to 2020 was the warmest decade on record for planet Earth, according to United Nations. The global wine industry, which is largely the product of the growing environment of each vineyard within unique production regions, is reporting that changes in the climate are impacting traditional methods and expectations. This goes beyond rising temperatures. "Because the Earth is a system, where everything is connected, changes in one area can influence changes in all others," (via United Nations).

Droughts, devastating fires, water scarcity, extreme weather incidents, and threats to biodiversity are often considered impacts of the changing climate. There are instances around the world where each of these occurrences — along with other circumstances — are threatening and altering the global wine industry in various ways. This is a reflection of broader conditions within the agricultural landscape, "because viticulture is sensitive to climate and is concentrated in Mediterranean climate regions that are global biodiversity hotspots," notes Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. Here are some of the most documented instances and what's being done by the world's growers and winemakers to mitigate or adapt to changes in climate.

But what happens if, as the Nature Geoscience journal report suggests, vineyards are forced out of their current locations by inhospitable conditions? Or if producers look to diverse regions and grape varieties to consider new styles? In Spain and elsewhere around the world, growers are constantly evaluating new spots to plant grapes, often in higher elevations that help moderate the climate. According to World Wildlife Fund, "As the major European wine producer closest to the equator, Spain is particularly vulnerable to climatic changes."

Spain has always been a diverse country, viticulturally. According to reporting in Wine Enthusiast, growers in Priorat, Rioja, Ribera del Duero, and elsewhere have sought out lifted heights for vineyards, suggesting that "elevation might be the most important ingredient of regional terroir." In many instances, these growing areas are traditional and not solely influenced by changes in climate, however, some producers have begun to search for frontier-level high-elevation sites for new plantings to take advantage of the conditions afforded by altitude.

One of the world's most acclaimed wine regions has been in a drought for years, a challenging circumstance that's predicted to continue. According to California Water Watch, in 2022, rainfall was at 76% of the historical average, and reservoir storage was at 69% of the historical average. "A growing body of evidence is starting to show that our current drought is an extension of the 2012-2016 drought, interrupted by just a few wet years," (via California Water Watch).

Through continued dry periods historically occurring in parts of California, there are several layers to this problem that are impacting the wine industry. Water efficiency should be a top priority for wineries and vineyards. This not only means reconsideration of irrigation practices, if that's part of the vineyard management system, but also winery functionality. On average, California wineries consume 2.5 gallons to 6 gallons of water for each gallon of wine made (much of it is used for cleaning). And that's only after the grapes have been harvested. The Teaching and Research Winery at the University of California Davis is working on moving the needle on this condition to 1 gallon of water for every gallon of wine.

According to Wine Australia, there are three main branches to consider when it comes to fire impact in the vineyard: preparing for the fire season, vine recovery following a fire, and evaluation of smoke impact. This last one might be the least obvious to consumers visually, but has a potential long-term influence on the finished wine. This happens when volatile phenols released by burning wood infuse the grape skins. Until the grapes are fermented, this might not be apparent, but when the phenols make themselves known, it's with a distinct flavor that some people experience as medicinal. Because red grapes are more likely to be fermented on their skins, this is often a factor in red wine production.

Grapes exposed to smoke during any phase of development might be affected, with the final stretch of ripening from the onset of color change (called verasion) to harvest being the most delicate time frame. "Smoke taint risk also depends on other factors such as intensity and duration of the fire, proximity of the vineyard to the fire, prevailing weather conditions and grape variety," (via Wine Australia). While an experienced winemaker can apply their own analysis to potentially smoke tainted grapes, the industry standard relies on lab work which can create a time-sensitive backlog when fires are extensive.

Eiswein, or ice wine, is a unique German product that is made when the grape berries are left to freeze on the vine. This concentrates the fruit and acidity, making a very delicious and increasingly rare sip. The temperature must drop to at least 19 degrees Fahrenheit in order to make eiswein, but the ideal zone is between 12 to 14 degrees Fahrenheit, according to Wines of Germany. This cold environment creates a naturally icy grape, with the water trapped inside in solid form when it is harvested (this often happens early on a winter morning). The resulting press is only juice, which freezes at a lower point than the water, used to make a highly concentrated and sweet wine.

If conditions aren't cold enough, then the vintage will produce little or no eiswein. While Germany is largely considered a cool climate region, with a long history of crafting ice wine each winter, the past several years have been too warm. While rising temperatures have enabled German growers to produce exceptional dry wines over recent years, the eiswein style has been reduced. According to Wine Enthusiast, only one German winemaker was able to make eiswein during the 2020 vintage.

In the historical southern French region of Provence, the wine industry is supported by the Centre de Recherche et d'Expérimentation sur le Vin Rosé (Rosé Research Center). The efforts of the center are aimed at supporting vineyard growers and winemakers, and one priority is planning for hotter, dryer growing conditions. "Over the last century, average temperatures in the region increased 2.52 F," according to Vins de Provence. "The rate of temperature change is surging, and in just the next 80 years, Provence expects to see higher temperatures, between an additional 3.6-to-10.8 F."

To cope with this, vignerons are adapting canopy management plans which provide more shade to developing berries and improve water efficiency within the leaves. Cover crop managed seasonally between the vine rows, also helps with moisture control within the soil. And irrigation, once forbidden in Provence, is now allowed on a limited basis in places where it is available. Many growers across southern France are also working with different varieties to evaluate the potential that grape diversity offers in a changing climate.