If you're skeptical about trying goat, this ragù from Barano in Brooklyn will teach you to love the versatile protein. Ground goat is cooked down with grapefruit and ground juniper in a Negroni-inspired sauce, then piled on top of vibrant green scallion pappardelle. It's a simple and sophisticated recipe that's perfect for any night of the week.
Goat's subtle gaminess pairs really well with the citrus in this ragù. Most butchers can order goat and grind it for you with no more than a day's notice. If you're flat out of luck finding goat, substitute ground lamb for a dish that will still wow your guests.
To learn more, read "Get Your Goat."
Scallion Pappardelle with Goat Ragù
Recipe adapted from Albert Di Meglio, Barano, Brooklyn, NY
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Prep Time: 30 minutes, plus resting time
Cook Time: 40 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour and 10 minutes, plus resting time
For the Pasta:
6 medium (2 ounces) scallions, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
2½ cups 00 flour, plus more for dusting
1 tablespoon salt, plus more to taste
For the Ragù:
½ large grapefruit, zested with a peeler
3 tablespoons olive oil
1½ pounds ground goat
½ yellow onion, minced
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 small carrot, peeled and minced
1 celery rib, minced
¾ cup white wine
¾ cup heavy cream
¾ cup lamb or chicken stock
1 teaspoon ground juniper berries
1 dried bay leaf
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish
1. Make the pasta dough: Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Add the scallions and cook until vibrant green and tender, 1 minute. Drain and run under cold water until cool. Squeeze out any excess water and transfer to a blender with the eggs, then purée until smooth.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, combine the flour and salt. Add the egg mixture and mix until a smooth dough comes together. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.
3. Meanwhile, make the ragù: Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Julienne the grapefruit zest and add to the boiling water. Cook for 30 seconds, then remove from the heat and drain. Return the zest to the pot and cover with water. Bring back to a boil, then drain again, reserving the zest.
4. In a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the goat and cook, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon, until golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the caramelized goat to a bowl.
5. Add the onions to the pan and cook until softened, 2 to 3 minutes, then add the garlic, carrot and celery. Cook until all the vegetables have softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the white wine and cook, scraping up any brown bits on the bottom of the pan, until completely evaporated, 2 minutes. Add the cream and reduce by half, 2 minutes.
6. Add the reserved grapefruit zest and goat with the stock, ground juniper berries and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer and cook, partially covered, until thickened, 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, then set aside.
7. Roll out the pasta: On a lightly floured work surface, roll half of the pasta dough into a rectangle, so it is thin and narrow enough to fit through the widest setting on your pasta roller. Sprinkle the dough with more all-purpose flour and begin to roll out. Gradually make the roller thinner until the pasta sheets are ⅛ inch thick. Using a knife, cut the dough into 10-by-1-inch strips of pasta. Repeat with the other half of the dough.
8. Return the ragù to a light simmer over medium heat while you cook the pasta. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta until al dente, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain the pasta, reserving ¼ cup of the cooking liquid.
9. Add the pasta and the reserved cooking liquid to the simmering ragù and cook until slightly thickened, 1 to 2 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper, then divide between plates. Garnish with grated Parmesan, then serve.
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