Bottlefork | River North, Chicago

At Bottlefork, the ambitious bar program is the standout

Do you know Bill Brasky?

At Bottlefork, newly open in River North, they've got a drink named for that supreme paragon of masculinity. And it's a doozy.

"In keeping with the ridiculousness and way overboard approach that is the old Bill Brasky sketches on Saturday Night Live, I decided I would do a drink with all the whiskeys," explains bar manager Brandon Phillips.

So he did. The gigantic drink ($35, limit one per customer) includes scotch, bourbon, rye and moonshine, and is dangerously easy to drink–though you might find it hard to wrap your hands around your vase-sized cup. Plus, it's got a drop of "the aftershave Brasky used to woo your wife." (Actually, it's rosewater.)

Chef Kevin Hickey's ambitious menu is a good match for the over-the-top drinks, especially because the bar snacks are the best things on it.

We could snack on piggy jerky ($5)–salty and sweet with hints of cola and soy–all night, while "popcorn" sweetbreads ($7) with a spicy pickled pepper aioli had us wondering why anyone bothers with shrimp anymore. Skip shrimp head soup (on the bland side), but don't miss the scotch quail eggs ($4). In fact, just order the whole "snacks" section of the menu and call it a night.

The Bill Brasky isn't the only super-expensive cocktail on Bottlefork's menu. The Chi-Sconsin Old Fashioned ($28) tasted mostly of Luxardo and wasn't worth the money, but the Brandy and Cigars ($30) really was. In the latter, Germain-Robin craft brandy from California is "smoked" (using a smoking gun) with Honduran Robusto cigars.

Even though it's not his namesake, it would probably be Brasky's second drink.