Jamón It

At La Nebbia, wine and pork form a happy union

"The starting point at La Nebbia is really the wine," says Lorella Degan, who shares ownership of the new Noe Valley enoteca with her husband, Massimiliano Conti.

The couple imagined their new spot, located a few steps away from La Ciccia, their Sardinian restaurant, as the kind of place where they'd hang out off-duty. They're serving wines they love–primarily sparklers and Northern Italian wines–with simple foods, including fresh cheeses, pizza and hams.

It's not a restaurant, Conti says. "It's eating in a different way."

In that case, we wondered, what might be La Nebbia's ultimate ham-and-wine pairings? Conti and Degan guided us through their favorites:

Prosciutto di Parma, left, with prosciutto di San Daniele

Lorella likes to sell slices of the 18-month-old Rovagnati Prosciutto di Parma ($14) with the delicately fizzy, flower-nosed NV Ceci Terre Verdiane Malvasia Frizzante ($11 a glass) to "wash away the salt."

The couple prefers to pair hams with wines from the same region. And it's true that the Spanish NV Vilarnau Brut Nature Cava Reserva ($11 a glass) pulls out the woodsy, gamy notes of the Monte Nevado jamón iberico de bellota ($24) like nothing else we tasted.

The pairing that stopped us in our tracks? A glass of the toasty, buttery NV Michel Rocourt blanc de blanc Champagne ($18 a glass) served with the Dall'Ava Prosciutto San Daniele ($22), whose slices are ringed with fat so luscious it resembles a triple-cream cheese.

If this is what they eat on their night off, we're moving in.