Hop to It

Lakeview's new home for creative beer

We've encountered the distinctive, tongue-numbing buzz of Sichuan peppercorns in shaking chile whitefish at Fat Rice, on chocolate-covered bananas at Mott St., and in abundance at Lao 18.

Where we weren't expecting to find it was in our beer. But there it was, faintly perceptible in the Vampire for Your Love Saison at Lakeview's new DryHop Brewers.

DryHop brewer Brant Dubovick's experimental style marks him as a brewmaker to watch, and the small, airy brewpub has been ceaselessly packed since opening last month. In addition to Sichuan peppercorns, the Saison is flavored with makrut (kaffir) lime leaves, which augment the style's emblematic citrusy flavors. Fresh coconut infuses the Angry Samoan, a milk stout that tastes of cocoa and macadamia nuts.

Shark Meets Hipster is made with 40 percent wheat, but is first and foremost a brash IPA and packs a wallop of hoppy bitterness. The Czech pils is Dubovick's ode to traditionalism, a classic version of the historic lager. Light-bodied and smooth, it's a refreshing counterpoint to DryHop's relentlessly meaty dishes. Pair it with boudin blanc enveloped in Indiana corn batter, corn-dog-style, with whole-grain beer mustard ($9), or ham-and-Gruyère croquettes ($8).

Dubovick is prolific, and DryHop's beer offerings ($4 to $5 for 10 to 13 ounces, or $12 for a flight of 6 beers) change weekly. All the more reason for repeat visits.