Mr. Chill

This Greek wine likes it cold

It might not solve Greece's current economic woes, but a recent surge of interest in Greek wine has brought a slew of fascinating examples to New York.

One grape, Xinomavro, is especially inspiring.

We've long admired this elegant red variety for its striking similarities to Italy's often prohibitively expensive Nebbiolo. However, with a sticky summer looming, the hearty Xinomavro wouldn't normally be the first grape variety we'd reach for in search of refreshment.

Then we tried the 2011 Thymiopoulos Young Vines Xinomavro Naoussa ($17 for 750 ml). Sourced from the estate's youngest, newly replanted organic vines, this vibrantly fresh, unoaked red offers an unexpected interpretation of the grape.

A bit like Greece's answer to the top crus of France's Beaujolais region, the Young Vines is best served with a slight chill, which highlights its bright, wild-berry freshness.

The wine's herbal kick, forward fruit and gentle smack of tannins make it the perfect partner for spiced dishes such as Roasted Carrots with Ras El Hanout, Moroccan Lamb Shoulder with Preserved Lemon Couscous and Spiced Crème Fraîche, or even a burger.

Available for purchase at: Brooklyn Wine Exchange, Flatiron Wines, New York Vintners and Garnet Wines & Spirits

Being poured at: Amali, Avlee, Maslow 6, Mermaid Inn, Stix and City Winery