Malacca gin returns from Tanqueray in a limited run

An old-new gin is back on the market

Few good things came out of cocktail culture in the '90s. One of the decade's few saving graces was a delicately spiced gin from Tanqueray called Malacca, but it was discontinued in 2001.

Now, like a hologram of Kurt Cobain, Malacca is back on the market ($28 for 1 liter), albeit in super-limited qualities. The gin, which has been described as the closest recent approximation of the original Old Tom Gin, is fragrant with citrus and floral notes.

It is based on the recipe created by Charles Tanqueray, the company's founder, during his travels through Asia in the early 19th century. If you see it in a liquor store, snag it, since a good portion of the small run has been picked up by bars. Here's where to drink it:

Houston: The trendsetting bar, Anvil, is serving the stuff in a proper Martinez. 

Miami: Khong River House is using its stash of Malacca to make a Thai-style Gimlet, made with a lime-galangal syrup.

San Francisco: At Trick Dog, you might find the gin as the base of a Fizz, or holding up a milk punch.