Savory Loves Sweet

A cookie recipe from Reynard

This is the 12th (and final!) cookie in our monthlong series, 12 Days of Cookies, featuring classic and inventive recipes from across the country.

Erin Kanagy-Loux has a secret: Her job title is pastry chef at Reynard at the Wythe Hotel in Williamsburg, the newest spot from Andrew Tarlow, the wizard behind Marlow & Sons, Marlow & Daughters, Diner and Roman's. But Kanagy-Loux's sweet tooth skews seriously savory.

For holiday baking this year, Kanagy-Loux is giving the boot to the usual spice suspects cinnamon, clove and nutmeg in favor of noble coriander.

She uses the lemony seed strikingly in her Salted Chocolate and Coriander Cookies (see the recipe).

It is a go-to ingredient for Kanagy-Loux. At Reynard, it's found in turnovers, apple compote and chocolate stout cake. The spice's herbaceous and floral notes impressively accent chocolate's natural smokiness.

At the restaurant, she likes to pair the cookies with bay laurel or rosemary ice cream. At home, we tried the cookies with heaping spoonfuls of vanilla and mint chocolate chip ice cream straight from the freezer. The combination was sublime.

Reynard, 80 Wythe Ave. (between N. 11th and N. 12th sts.); Brooklyn; 718-460-8004 or reynardsnyc.com