Belcampo's Meat Co.'s Varied Selection Of Goat

You can find T-bones and burgers at Belcampo Meat Co.'s new Larkspur butcher shop, as well as free-range chicken and pastured pork.

Study the brightly lit meat cases for a few moments, though, and you'll discover an astonishing variety of goat, the cuts all lean and beautifully trimmed. That's not many shoppers' experience of goat, which is too often sold in large chunks.

Butcher Chris Arentz breaks down whole animals in-house into such unusual cuts as boned, rolled leg of goat ($13 per pound), goat porterhouse ($20 per pound) and boneless goat breast ($14 per pound), with belly meat rolled tightly around it, porchetta-style.

The goats, Boer-Kiku crosses, are raised on Belcampo's 10,000-acre, certified organic farm near Yreka, and butchered humanely at its new processing facility.

On Arentz's instructions, we seared the breast in a heavy pot, which we then deglazed with aromatics and enough red wine and stock to cover the bottom. After a couple hours in a 300-degree oven, the breast came out none too tough, free of the muskiness of lamb and much richer.

Goat: gotten.

Belcampo Meat Co., 2405 Larkspur Landing Circle, Building 4, Larkspur; 415-448-5810 or belcampomeatco.com