'Mouth Off

Two new vermouths take New York

Vermouth, please accept our apology. We may have misjudged you.

Sure, we always relished your important supporting role in a Manhattan, martini or Negroni.

Now, two spanking-new local vermouth brands have reminded us how dashing these aromatized fortified wines can be on their own. Drink them simply–neat or on the rocks:

Atsby Vermouth: A hike up Mont Blanc and one glass of Italian vermouth was the impetus for Adam Ford's creation of Atsby's two vermouths, Amberthorn and Armadillo Cake. Both are made from Long Island Chardonnay and stabilized with apple brandy. The first is light, blond and exhilarating; the second is darker and uses both shiitakes and caramel (each $37 for 750 ml). Find Atsby at these stores.

Uncouth Vermouth: Bianca Miraglia's Brooklyn-made vermouths are like the handiwork of a soused herbalist. The inaugural autumn allocations include three varieties: Apple Mint, Pear Ginger and Serrano Chile Lavender ($38 for 500 ml). Each has head-spinningly complex flavors created from a forest floor's worth of roots, spices, flowers, herbs seeds and pods. Preorder through Brooklyn Wine Exchange, Vestry Wines and Dry Dock Wine + Spirits.