Milk It

Nut milk meets the coffee mug, falls in love

The milk aisle isn't just for dairy anymore.

Milks made from rice, soy and a bevy of nuts are omnipresent, but sadly, the label alone doesn't guarantee a rich taste or full-bodied flavor.

The watery finish of nut milks once made them a poor substitute for good ol' two percent. No longer: With OMilk's superlative cashew and almond versions ($4 for 8 ounces, $7 for 16 ounces, $10 for 32 ounces), these versions are ready to take on Bessie.

Made in Brooklyn by Greg and Julie Van Ullen, a couple on a quest for delicious, healthful dairy alternatives, OMilk's products mimic the lushness of dairy, but with an added nuttiness.

Their cashew milk is subtly sweetened with vanilla and redolent of cinnamon. We like to drink the smooth-tasting, agave-sweetened almond milk straight, but it can also add an extra depth to coffee and smoothies.

Our favorite by far, though, is the pair's latest invention: coffee almond milk made with Toby's Estate cold-brew coffee. The bitterness of the java cuts the sweetness of the almond, and with the milk's gentle creaminess, we kept craving one more sip. Currently available by home delivery, it will be released tomorrow at Whole Foods Tribeca.

Find OMilk at Whole Foods Tribeca, Union Market Brooklyn, Dean & Deluca (Madison Ave. and Soho), the Brooklyn Flea and for home delivery.