White Heat

Hot-weather whites from Greece at Estiatorio Milos

White wines from Greece are a natural foil for our steamy rainy season.

When you enter the new South Beach outpost of Estiatorio Milos, your eyes are first drawn to the whole Mediterranean fish gleaming on their ice display. You might also notice the formidable slab of marble affixed to the far wall. 

Some gaudy things have been done with marble over the years. One could say the same about Greek wine. But that tide is turning, and Milos' sommelier, Kimberly Szewczyk, shared with us some stellar examples of how Greek wine has changed for the more delicious.

2010 Biblia Chora Areti Pangeon Assyrtico ($14 per glass; $57 for 750 ml): This white is full-bodied, with apricot tones. Pair with a platter of spreads ($29), including garlicky tzatziki and roasted red pepper htipiti.

2010 Tselepos Blanc de Gris Peloponnese Moschofilero ($16 per glass): When paired with scallop carpaccio ($19 when available; ask your server) with lemon rind and sea salt, this combination is like alchemy, transcending to a new, stunning flavor.

2003 Parparoussis Muscat de Rio Patras Peloponnese ($18 per glass): This sticky white is peerless with a dessert of Greek yogurt with thyme honey ($12).

Estiatorio Milos, 730 First St. (at Washington Ave.), Miami Beach; 305-604-6800 or milos.ca