California Love

Farmshop's market is now open

Farmshop is finally open.

Yes, it's been over a year, but Jeff Cerciello's multifaceted vision has taken time to unfold.

And with the recent addition of a market section, which doubles the size of what had been a deceptively small space, Brentwood and Santa Monica have a new culinary shopping destination.

Rather than being fancy and expensive for the sake of being both, this is a market with a distinct point of view: Very little sold at this store is imported. The cheese case is filled completely with domestic stock, save for the wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano, the majority of which is made from raw milk.

On the shelves that might be brimming with pricey Italian pastas at similar enterprises, you'll find Community Grains' various extrusions of California-grown and -milled whole wheat. The linguine ($6) has little of the grittiness associated with whole-grain pasta, but carries that lovely nutty flavor in spades.

There's a butcher case, too, where various fresh meats and Sonoma's Black Pig Bacon ($13.50 for 12 ounces) reside. Northern California is well represented on the wine rack, with bottles like Bedrock Wine Co.'s 2010 Ode to Lulu rosé ($18), made from Sonoma Mourvèdre harvested from 120-year-old vines.

Farmshop, 225 26th St., Santa Monica; 310-566-2400 or farmshopla.com