Grand Nonna

Ron Suhanosky is back cooking at Nonna's Table

We may receive a commission on purchases made from links.

The new Nonna's Table in the Upper East Side could not be more aptly named.

After all, the only tables in the shop once belonged to owner Ron Suhanosky's grandmother and great-grandmother.

At the long table in back that used to be Great-Grandma's, you can take a bespoke cooking class or indulge in a private dinner. Chat with Suhanosky (the former chef at Sfoglia and author of The Italian Table: Eating Together for Every Occasion) at the counter to design a tailored evening (classes and dinners start at $75 a person).

At his grandmother's smaller front table, eat brawny focaccia-esque Sicilian pizza ($4), hot soups ($4), verdant pistachio cookies ($1) and luxuriously moist apple cake ($3 a slice). Or grab fresh pastas, chicken-liver pâté, meatballs, cheeses and cured meats to take home.

Along the left wall between the two tables, the shelves hold well-curated pantry staples, including gluten-free dried pastas ($5.25), pumpkin mostarda ($15) and dusky cicerchia beans ($11).

Suhanosky came across this chickpea-like bean in Umbria, and he uses the legumes in a stunningly simple soup enriched with a smoked ham hock (click here for the recipe).

Nonna's Table closes at the unkind hour of 6 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays, and at 3 p.m. on Sundays.

Nonetheless, with the cicerchia recipe we snagged, you can re-create Suhanosky's deeply Italian flavors at your table anytime.

Nonna's Table, 163 E. 92nd St. (between Third and Lexington aves.); 212-831-9200