Something Fishy

Italian sleekness hits the canned-food aisle

Some people's blissful childhoods turned on canned tuna. For others, the tinned fish was the stuff of sandwich nightmares.

We suspect every kid–and adult–in the country would be unbending packaged tuna fans if everyone grew up with Moreno Cedroni's canned fish.

Cedroni, who has four restaurants, two Michelin stars and a cookbook to his name, is a seafood trailblazer in Italy. And now it no longer takes a transatlantic trip to taste his mastery of the genre: The chef's line of canned fish and shellfish has finally landed Stateside.

The brightly colored tins hold combinations such as octopus with potato and parsley, cuttlefish with peas, monkfish liver and Cedroni's take on the tuna classic, Atlantic bonito in extra-virgin olive oil.

The monkfish liver is not for the faint of palate, but the octopus made a lively and simple meal when warmed and tossed with pasta. And we studded a salad of spinach and warm mustard vinaigrette with chunks of the bonito.

The seafood is now on shelves at New York's Eataly and Il Buco Alimentari and Vineria, and it's only a matter of time before this fish washes across the country. For those who can't wait, the tins are available online from the chef's personal website.