The Chuck Wagon

A mobile meat market in Hayes Valley

We would love the new Avedano's Meat Wagon, parked in Proxy, that food lover's cluster in Hayes Valley, even if it didn't sell lardo burgers, robust patties made of ground beef combined with pork fat ($9.50 per pound).

The exquisite details of the fire-engine-red '57 Ford, a former ambulance converted into a butcher shop on wheels, are compelling on their own: A meat wagon becomes a meat wagon.

Beyond lardo burgers, the truck carries the full roster of meaty goods: New York steaks, chickens (whole, half and marinated), ground lamb, bacon and hot dogs from 4505 Meats, all wrapped and ready to go, sourced from the same producers who supply the Bernal Heights brick-and-mortar butcher shop.

Bags of potatoes, tomatoes and mirepoix vegetables, as well as kabocha squash and other seasonal produce, are also available, creating a one-stop shop.

Each Friday, in a nod to Catholic tradition, the meat truck will also carry fish, sourced from sustainable seafood expert Kenny Belov, the owner of Sausalito's Fish. restaurant and market.

And plans to sell cooked food, including grilled items, are in the works.

Avedano's Meat Wagon, 432 Octavia St., Tuesdays through Thursdays from 3 to 7 p.m., and Saturdays and Sundays from 11 to 7 p.m.; avedanos.com