Veal with Appeal

Sir William Angus redefines veal

If the combination of taste (ho-hum), color (anemic) and humane concerns (tiny crates) has had you avoiding veal, you're not the only one.

Master butcher Jake Dickson of Dickson's Farmstand Meats in Chelsea has also dodged veal for the same reasons–until now.

Sir William Angus, located two hours north from the city in Craryville, New York, has long been one of Dickson's Farmstand Meat's Berkshire pork providers. Now, the farm's veal has joined its porcine brethren.

The newly arrived Sir William Angus veal is surprisingly darker and richer than even the rosiest rose veal we've seen. The calves, which spend time with their mothers on open pasture, are bred for flavor rather than milk; as a result, the meat is both tender and robust.

Dickson's receives one quartered calf every other week. On our most recent visit, the display was loaded with rib chops ($24 per pound), scaloppini ($16), porterhouse chops ($22), tenderloin ($36), sirloin steak ($20), tri-tip ($20) and sweetbreads ($16). We snagged a tri-tip piece and pan-roasted the fine meat with butter, thyme and turnips.

Still more veal: Look for brined, smoked and pulled veal-neck barbecue sandwiches ($11) at Dickson's during lunch, plus ready-to-eat weisswurst ($14 per pound) made with a mix of veal meat and pork fat.

Dickson's Farmstand Meats at the Chelsea Market, 75 Ninth Ave. (between 15th and 16th sts.); 212-242-2630 or dicksonsfarmstand.com