Traveling Table: Nantucket

A small island increases its flavor quotient

If we're honest, we don't need much to be happy when we're in Nantucket. Give us a burger and perhaps a scoop of ice cream, and we're content. That said, the historic island has seen an uptick in spots that go beyond basic beach fare, which is just one more reason to hop on that ferry.

Dupree & Company For provisions that are as appropriate on an outdoor bench as they are on a yacht, head to this just-opened slip of a store. Proprietor Ethan Dupree has spent the past several years in France's Burgundy region working with lauded winemakers, and gives extra shelf space Burgundian bottles. Select one, then pair it with several cheeses from the 65-strong selection.

Ventuno The team behind the popular Straight Wharf restaurant has taken over this space to turn out some of the finest pasta on the island (and we'd argue, beyond). Start the evening at the bar with a Negroni Sbagliato, then head to your table to be struck by dishes such as the pasta di maggio, a holdover from spring loaded with morels, asparagus, ramps and ricotta. Order the seasonal crostata (most recently studded with nectarines) ahead of time: It's baked to order and should not be missed.

Brick Bistro Longtime Nantucket resident Michael Sturgis opened a new concept in the historic Jared Coffin house this past spring, and the brunch menu is an ideal place to make a pit stop before an afternoon at the beach. The lobster Benedict will keep you sated through surf and swim.

Pazzo After mastering sushi at Lola 41° and burgers at the tiny shop of the same name, restaurateur Marco Coelho has turned to the Mediterranean. Go straight for the spit-roasted section of the menu: The half chicken, cooked slowly over a wood-smoke rotisserie, is the ideal summer dish. Enjoy it in the restaurant, or call ahead of time and pick one up for a picnic.