Red Zebra's Pizzas | Downtown, Washington D.C.

There's no jostling for tables at the city's newest wood-fired pizzeria.

Rather, Red Zebra hauls a mobile wood-fired oven to the market each week to create blistering pies made with farm-sourced ingredients.

Chef Susan Painter prepares each pizza to order, rolling her dough over cornmeal, then topping and baking each nine-inch pie with assembly-line efficiency in her tiny open-air setup. Toppings combine farm-bought sausages, cheeses and vegetables with items that Painter prepares herself.

Painter is also liberal with cheese, using cheese-plate-worthy products from FireFly Farms and Cherry Glen to create a solid base for the other ingredients.

Shiitake mushroom ragout ($12) is dense with sliced mushrooms under shavings of smoked cheddar and Painter's own goat ricotta. Fresh mint pesto adds an herbal bite to local lamb sausage ($12) over tomato sauce.

White pizza ($10) typically hosts spicy, peppery greens. The tomato-less pie arrived with arugula, rosemary and Havarti one week, then melting goat cheese, balsamic vinegar and red mustard greens the next.

Painter's oven bakes at 700 degrees instead of the Neapolitan ideal of 900, so diners have a few more minutes of cooking time to chat with the gregarious pizzaiolo or pick up accompaniments at neighboring market stalls.

Available at the Freshfarm Market by the White House, 3 to 7 p.m., 810 Vermont Ave. NW, between H & I sts.; freshfarmmarkets.org