For Cod And Country Cookbook By Chef Barton Seaver

Long before "bluefin" became a sustainability buzzword, local chef Barton Seaver was a guru of thoughtful, ocean-friendly alternatives.

Now the local chef, an alumnus of Café Saint-Ex, Bar Pilar and Hook, has turned his fish-focused passion into the excellent new cookbook and guide For Cod and Country ($30).

The thick book is a tome dedicated to fish mastery. The opening pages include a glossary of fishing methods and substitutes for threatened species. The back of the book showcases simple techniques and brines for even the most delicate fish.

Ever cognizant of seasonality, Seaver has divided his recipes into four parts for a year-round menu of lesser-known options, including wahoo and amberjack. He also includes recipes for recommended sides and complementary salads, plus classics from past jobs (like Mussels Saint-Ex), party ideas and new holiday dishes.

The spring section is bright with early-season vegetables, including grilled asparagus with cobia and walnut purée. Broiled oysters are a sweet and smoky appetizer for early picnics, with a dab of peach jelly and smoked paprika flirting with the oysters' brine (click here to download the recipe).

There are also options for oyster purists: Seaver's liquid enhancements for raw oysters include gingered sake, salty Guinness and smoky mescal.