Pave Henri And Pave Francine From Brunkow Cheese

The scent of grilling cheese never fails to draw us to the Brunkow Cheese stand at the Green City Market.

But on a recent visit, we walked away with the two newest cheeses from Brunkow's Fayette Creamery line: the bold, stinky Pave Henri and the more docile Pave Francine, both made from the milk of a single herd of 15 grass-fed Wisconsin Jersey cows.

Named for cheesemaker Joe Burns' son, the Henri ($12 for an 8-ounce square) is a cheese for those who want a rich, grassy funk. Ripened for 40 days while being washed, Trappist-style, with brine, the small block has a thin, bloomy rind and a silky interior. Pair it with apples and Asian pears on a cheese board; Burns' favorite wine pairings are full, dry whites from Alsace–Riesling and Pinot Gris.

The Francine (named for daughter Franny; $10 for an 8-ounce square) is still being tweaked, but the current incarnation is superb. Aged for 60 days, then coated with herbes de Provence, it's a dense, dry, gently flavored cheese that can be sliced or grated.

Up next: a cheese for his younger son, Jack. Pommes Jacques is bathed in apple brandy during the affinage (aging process); look for it at the market come spring.