Salsa Lesson

Truly homegrown condiments inspired by the boroughs

What started two years ago as a scrappy, bicycle-based taco-delivery service has become a local condiment juggernaut: The Brooklyn Salsa Company.

Founders Rob Behnke and Matt Burns aren't making your typical mild, medium and hot varieties. Each of Brooklyn Salsa Co.'s five salsas is named after one of the city's boroughs and made from local and organic ingredients–many grown in community and rooftop gardens. "The Pure" (Manhattan) is the most classic and mild of the bunch, while "The Tropical" (Queens) features the addition of orange and coconut milk.

Keeping in mind that "salsa" means "sauce," try the tomatillo-based "The Green" (Staten Island) as a marinade for halibut, or pour a healthy dose of "The Hot" (Brooklyn) on burgers. And the charred flavors of "The Burnt" (Bronx) work their smoky magic in goat-cheese-stuffed butternut-squash fritters, one of Behnke and Burns's own creations (click here to download the recipe).

This fall, The Brooklyn Salsa Company will launch its first seasonal salsa named not for a borough but for a nearby village, Sleepy Hollow. Made from a blend of butternut squash, cinnamon and orange juice, this salsa is perfect for topping late-harvest desserts.

The Brooklyn Salsa Company salsas ($6 a jar) are sold at Whole Foods, Fairway and online at bksalsa.com