Milk Made

Ice cream the way cows intended it

A bit outside the metro area in Fauquier County, ice cream is an udder-to-table experience.

The new Moo Thru in Remington is an old-fashioned ice cream drive-through, scooping hand-dipped and soft-serve desserts that come from cows raised in the surrounding pastures.

Owner Ken Smith operates the nearby Cool Lawn Farm, home to thousands of grass-fed Holstein cattle. After years of selling to nearby grocery stores, he decided to create drive-through and walk-up windows in a barnlike building, selling ice cream along with half-gallons of his whole, skim and chocolate milk ($2 to $2.50).

The ice cream is made with simple ingredients, so it's somewhat denser than the emulsified commercial brands, but it's also richer in flavor and less airy.

Summer's best fruits shine through in creamy blackberry and yellow peach flavors. Coffee ice cream has a beanlike buzz that isn't tempered by too much sugar, while butter pecan is sweet and silky. As a nod to the black-and-white cows that provided the cream, the Holstein flavor is vanilla studded with chocolate chips.

The regular size of hand-dipped ice cream ($3.25) is two scoops, while a large ($4.25) will get you four. You can also upgrade to a sundae ($4) or retro banana split ($5.50).

There are plenty of toppings–including fresh fruit and cookie dough–but a puff of whipped cream is our dairy-centric choice.

Moo Thru, 11402 James Madison Hwy, Remington; 540-439-6455 or moothru.com