Icing the Competition

The experimental spectacle of Robicelli's Cupcakes

For the past few years, the cupcake has been, well, everywhere, and embracing every imaginable meme and mash-up (from bacon to cocktails) in its frosted format.

So it takes something exceptional for us to revisit the rampant dessert.

Robicelli's Cupcakes are just that. Flavors such as The Bluth (a chocolate-banana cake topped with chocolate frosting and walnuts and inspired, yes, by Arrested Development), The Maltz (chocolate-bourbon cake with candied bacon, pictured) and Chicken 'n' Waffles (a "waffle" cake covered with vanilla buttercream and maple-glazed fried chicken) are just two of 78 (and counting) varieties dreamed up by Matt and Allison Robicelli.

"I never really bought into the cupcake craze," says Allison, who created the line with husband Matt. "So we never really approach them like a cupcake." Take the Iona, a pear-and-olive-oil cake topped with blue-cheese frosting, port reduction and candied walnuts: It was inspired by composed cheese plates at the fine-dining restaurants where the couple learned their trade.

The Robicellis are constantly developing more flavors from their bucket list of 350 ideas (click here to see their latest offerings), but Allison is sure of one thing: "I will never make a damn red velvet cupcake."

Robicelli's Cupcakes are available at Cakeshop and Coyi Café in Manhattan, Blue Apron Foods, Cafe 474, Flying Saucer Café and other spots in Brooklyn and at the Red Hook Mercado on weekends.