Pink Pride

Rosé for red-wine lovers

At its simplest, rosé is crisp, juicy and light–a perfect summer wine.

But depth, bold flavors and heft–words more often associated with reds–can be found in the oeuvre too.

Rosé detractors may adopt anti-pink machismo, or claim that the trend has passed–but these three bottles will change any skeptic's mind about the wine's sophistication, complexity and relevance.

Seek out these bottles, pair them as you would a red wine, and watch the conversions take place.

1998 Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva Rosado More tawny than pink, this incredibly complex, bone-dry vintage wine backs up the freshness and light fruit of rosé with nutty, lightly oxidized flavors. It's as comfortable with spicy foods as it is with charcuterie and cheese. $22 at Fox & Obel and Binny's

2009 Elizabeth Rose Rosé Bright pink, with big flavor, this organic rosé is made from Syrah grown in Yountville, California. It's crisp and juicy but full-bodied for the style, and it's weighty enough to stand up to steak. $18 at The Noble Grape

2008 Castillo de Jumilla Monastrell Rosado When in doubt, seek out a single-varietal rosé, as flavors tend to be more complex and intense. A perfect example is this 100 percent Monastrell from Spain–it's dry, weighty and smooth, with an intense cherry color and flavor that brings grilled shellfish and spice-rubbed chicken and pork to mind. $13 at The Poison Cup