Better Brews

The admirable beers of the new Public House

Beers and potato skins are always a winning combination.

When the brews are sublime and the spuds are overseen by Traci Des Jardins, though, you can expect fireworks at odds with the typical sports bar brawl.

At the new Public House at AT&T Park, the industrious Des Jardins has transfigured the space that once housed Acme Chophouse. A new branch of her taquería, Mijita, is now on-site, and the anchor of the reinvention is her sprawling brewpub, Public House.

The food–including those potato skins ($10), hollowed and stuffed with rich beef stew and spiky horseradish cream–is a clever reconsideration of sports bar classics. We were especially taken with the shattering onion rings ($5), cheesesteak ($12) and Boccalone Italian sausage sandwich ($9.50).

But without its epic beer program, Public House would be merely another dining destination.

There are currently two superb cask ales on offer, and at any given time, there are about 22 beers on draft, the bulk of them from California. They include such standout suds as North Coast Brewing Company's meaty Old No. 38 Stout ($7 a pint), the burnt-sugary Hot Rocks Lager ($8.50 a pint) from Port Brewing Company, and the gently hoppy Kilt Lifter ($7 for 8 ounces) from Moylan's in Novato.

For an international beer stopover, dig into one of the nearly 25 bottled brews.

Potato skins have never had it so good.

Public House, AT&T Park, 24 Willie Mays Plaza; 415-644-0240 or publichousesf.com