Traveling Table: San Francisco

Contigo In sleepy Noe Valley, chef Brett Emerson cooks an unsung regional Spanish cuisine–that of Catalonia in the country's northeast. He turns out cocas (topped flatbreads; $16) and croquetas (oxtail croquettes; $9), and sources Spanish anchovies ($5) and jamón Iberico ($15). The wine list is a revelation of Spanish vintages from underrepresented regions and producers. 1320 Castro St.; 415-285-0250 or contigosf.com

RN74 This wine bar from longtime Michael Mina wine director Rajat Parr is splashy but far from soulless. It's modeled after a European train station, and an enormous board advertises deals on "last bottles" in stock (the cellar of white and red Burgundies is mind-boggling). The food from winemaker and French Laundry alum Jason Berthold is similarly outstanding. 301 Mission St.; 415-543-7474 or michaelmina.net