Traveling Table: San Francisco

There's so much more than sourdough

Contigo In sleepy Noe Valley, chef Brett Emerson cooks an unsung regional Spanish cuisine–that of Catalonia in the country's northeast. He turns out cocas (topped flatbreads; $16) and croquetas (oxtail croquettes; $9), and sources Spanish anchovies ($5) and jamón Iberico ($15). The wine list is a revelation of Spanish vintages from underrepresented regions and producers. 1320 Castro St.; 415-285-0250 or contigosf.com

RN74 This wine bar from longtime Michael Mina wine director Rajat Parr is splashy but far from soulless. It's modeled after a European train station, and an enormous board advertises deals on "last bottles" in stock (the cellar of white and red Burgundies is mind-boggling). The food from winemaker and French Laundry alum Jason Berthold is similarly outstanding. 301 Mission St.; 415-543-7474 or michaelmina.net