Pork Fight!

Square off with chefs for Eggleston pork

The meat from Bev Eggleston's pigs has elicited love songs from New Yorkers–chefs and nonchefs alike–for quite some time.

But recently, only the former group had access to the storied swine, and would-be home cooks could only get a taste at restaurants like Momofuku, Gramercy Tavern, Back Forty and Craft.

Well chefs, the jig is up: Marlow & Daughters recently began carrying this cult product. The rich, fatty meat, known for its distinctive flavor and sustainable cultivation, is now available for house calls.

There's one catch: Eggleston delivers only one pig a week, and it's divided between the shop's customers and the Marlow & Sons kitchen.

You can bet that Marlow's chefs are putting up a fight: "We had to hide it from the restaurant so we could save it for our customers," said Andrew Dorsey, one of the store's butchers.

Marlow sells the pigs–which are either farmer's cross or heirloom Ossabaw breeds–in a variety of cuts, like shoulder ($9 a pound) and bone-in pork chops ($17 a pound). Recently, one particularly fatty specimen was turned into prosciutto cotto. Any part of Eggleston's pigs is fair game...it's just a matter of who gets to it first.

Marlow & Daughters, 95 Broadway (at Berry St.), Brooklyn; 718-388-5700 or marlowanddaughters.com