Raines Law Room Bar in New York City and Cocktail Recipe

At Raines Law Room, the party's in the back

When this post-modern speakeasy thing fades (possibly sooner than expected, thanks to the Gray Lady), we expect its replacement will be a breed of bar that feels less like a secret society and more like a cocktail party. Raines Law Room, it seems, straddles both of these sensibilities.

Though the front half of this four-month-old Flatiron bar whispers "Prohibition" with its absent signage, discreet doorman and anteroom filled with tufted-chairs and dimmed antique lights, the back kitchenlike area says "civilized house party."

Here, patrons gather around the oval marble island, where drinks are mixed by bartenders who act more like congenial hosts than shakers-from-on-high. Interaction here is encouraged, and if the kitchen gets too crowded, as with any house party, guests can easily find a breath of fresh air in the newly opened courtyard.

Though the cocktail menu has stuck mostly to pre-Prohibition recipes until now, Raines's latest list includes seasonal drinks and new concoctions. And, like the bar itself, this recipe–an update of a classic drink called the Charlie Chaplin–is a bridge to a post-speakeasy society.

The Tramp

Recipe from Jeremy James Thompson

Makes 1 drink

Ice

1 ounce gin, preferably Plymouth

1 ounce sloe gin, preferably Plymouth

1 ounce apricot brandy, preferably Marie Brizard

1 lime wedge

Soda water

Fill a cocktail shaker and a Collins glass with ice. Add the gin, sloe gin and apricot brandy to the shaker. Squeeze the lime wedge over the drink, then drop it in. Shake vigorously for 10 seconds and strain into the Collins glass. Top with soda water and serve.

Raines Law Room, 48 W. 17th St. (between Fifth and Sixth aves.); no phone