At the soon-to-open elm in New Canaan, Connecticut, both chef Brian Lewis and pastry chef Caryn Stabinsky approach classic dishes with a modern eye. Stabinsky's take on chocolate pots de crème balances the custard's intense richness with a glasslike panel of crackly caramelized sugar on top. Although Stabinsky recommends any small container as a serving vessel, we prefer the shallower variety, allowing for an ample crunch-to-crème ratio.