A well-made Bolognese sauce is beautiful. Slowly simmered on the stovetop, it has richness from pork, sweetness from alliums and tomatoes, and a meaty backbone from veal, beef and sometimes pancetta. In this version from The Pass & Provisions in Houston, Texas, co-chefs and owners Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel-Gardner add the Italian predecessor to bologna, mortadella, heavy cream and fish sauce for a smack of umami. Add to that the lemony perk of a spoonful of pistachio gremolata, and you'll wonder how marinara could ever compete.